pirmdiena, 2016. gada 18. janvāris

Back In Time : VICTORIAN ERA

Hello for all the fashion lovers out there!
This period in history is my favorite, because all the gorgeous dresses and different clothing come from this era.




Queen Victoria ruled England from 1837-1901. Before this time, men were the focus of fashion, but with a queen in power, women surged to the forefront. 


Pre-Hoop Era 1840-1855

In the 1840's, Full skirts were supported by a vast array of petticoats. The natural waist could be slightly longer than natural, with points in front and behind.  Most trimmings were applied in a manner that was wide at the shoulder, narrowing at the waist and then widening again at the hem of the skirt.  This would accentuate the tightly laced waistline.


Evening bodices were low off the shoulder, often covered with folds of fabric or a bertha. The style for flounces on the dresses begins to be very popular, with more and more flounces add all the time. Dress fabrics were milled especially for the flounces, with colors and patterns designed to be cut into strips.


Hoop Era 1856-1869

In 1856, the cage crinoline was reinvented. The hoop was round in shape, somewhat bustled behind. The skirts were made of straight widths of fabric pleated into a waistband.    The jacket bodice also becomes very popular, extending long over the hips.


By the 1860's The bodice for casual attire now ends at the natural waist, straight all around, but the formal bodice often has two long points in front and 1 or 3 long points in the back. A new style of casual wear consits of a Spanish jacket, long or cropped, worn over a blouse, aka Garibaldi blouse.


Early Bustle 1869-1876

When the hoop skirt lost popularity it was replaced by a framework known as the bustle. The overall shape was full in front and even more fabric to the back. Most dresses were trained, but "walking dresses" were just floor length. In 1870-1871, most bodices ended at the natural waist.  The overskirt (tunic) would then be fitted over the bodice, showing a belt and often a large bow behind.  A detatched basque (a very short overkirt) became very fashionable.  This basque soon became attached to the bodice, and the bodices began to extend past the waist and over the hips.


Natural Form 1877-1882

By 1877 the poufs in the skirts dropped to behind the knees. The bodices became long and smooth fitting over the hips, in a style known as the Cuirass. A tall, slim figure was considered fashionable.

Colors and textures were mixed into complicated creations of skirts. Necklines for day wear become more conservative, either high with a collar, or open in a small "V".  By 1880, the skirts are very slim and the train begins to disapear.  "Pannier" drapes at the hips are all the rage in France, adding fullnes to the figure. 
1890's

In 1890, the bustle disapeared again, this time for good. The skirts became slim in front and still very full behind, but without poufs or lift. Sleeves began to expand slowly.  Bodices became either short at the hip, or long as a jacket. During this decade, the focus switched slowly from the skirt to the bodice.  


Tailors begin to specialize in ladies clothing and a new style is created, the Tailor-Made. By 1899, the sleeevs had slimmed considerably. The corset shape had changed to the "S" curve, giving beginings of the full breasted.



Hey, what do you think of these beautiful dresses? Whick style is your favorite?
Bye, 





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